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  • I ain't sure if I just purchased a pair of "HID bulbs" or not. It says "HID" & "Xenon" on the packaging but nowhere does it mention the need for two dedicated HID ballasts to power like what your site mentions.
    Sorry but yours are not HID bulbs.
    You merely purchased a pair of blue-coated (ie: intensity compromised) halogen bulbs which are mis-labelled to trick buyer into believing that they are of the same thing as genuine HID capsules. True that certain aftermarket halogen bulbs contain traces of xenon gas these days, but calling them 'HID bulbs' is just plain deceiving. HID capsule requires dedicated HID ballast to run and doesn't contain any filament. HID capsule outputs 3 times the intensity, consumes less power, and lasts 5 times longer than stock halogen counterparts.
      HID
    (H-1)
    Halogen
    (H-1)
    Wattage (W) 35 55
    Candela (cd) 202,500 67,500
    Lumen (lm) 3,200 1,550
    Temp. (k) 4,100 3,200
    Irradiation cr. Pure white White
    Life expectancy 2,000 hr. 400 hr.
  • Can you define Candela (cd), Lumen (lm) and Kelvin (K)?
    Click to learn a little more on the luminous science.
    -  CANDELA (cd)  - The international unit (SI) of luminous intensity. The term has been in use since the early days of lighting when a standard candle of a fixed size and composition was used as a basis for evaluating the intensity of other light sources. This unit is used in measuring headlight output; basically the higher the number is the brighter the light is.
    -  LUMEN (lm)  - The international unit (SI) of luminous flux (quantity of light). For example, a dinner candle produces about 12 lumens and a standard 60-watt incandescent bulb produces 830 lumens. The higher the number is, the brighter the light is.
    -  KELVIN (k)  - A basic unit of thermodynamic temperature (colour temperature) used to measure the whiteness of the light output. The higher the number is the bluer (or purpler) the light is.
  • I am confused on some HID terms.
    Click here to view a brief explanation.
    - Capsule - The Xenon gas inside the capsule and the mercurial Metal Halide Salts emits light of high degree of brightness.
    - Ignitor - An electric current transformer that light the bulb by discharging a high electric pulse using an electric current switch through an electric current from the Ballast.
    - Ballast - Supplies and controls the electric current (±20,000V) to the Xenon capsule
  • So HID lighting system refers to those crisp & bright headlights found on many luxurious European cars?
    Indeed, there has been an influx of many European, Japanese and American cars that are utilizing HID technology because of the superiority that it offers.
    Until recent 8 years, it was almost impossible to convert a conventional halogen headlamp system into the new HID headlamp technology. The reason is that OEM HID capsule (a.k.a. D2S/D2R) requires a specially-shaped base. Therefore, OEM HID capsule would not fit into a stock halogen headlight assembly.
  • Can HID conversion kit retrofit any conventional halogen headlight system with genuine HID?
    Yes. And some fog lamp units too provided that space permits.
    Our kit is a truly direct plug-n-play retrofit HID conversion type. It transforms ordinary automotive and motorcycle headlight systems into the most advanced HID technology.
  • What other significance of this conversion should I be aware of?
    We will list them out as follows.
    1. Beam Correction - Although our system produces accurate beam with minimal glare nor improper projection, it is always wise to check its focal length and adjust if necessary. Incorrect beam pattern endangers oncoming traffic. NHTSA & DOT received lots of complaints regarding haphazard glare from both aftermarket as well as OEM HID systems.
    2. Converted halogen-to-HID headlight systems are brighter than even OEM HID system - HID system in a light-intensifying halogen housing is brighter than HID system in a light-controlling OEM HID housing. This is why we can't stress enough the importance of checking your projection beam pattern after conversion.
  • Is it safe to convert one's halogen headlight into HID?
    A safety shut-off feature is a must because such conversion can cause fire!
    You would be stunned when we tell you that piecing other people's OEM HID ballasts together to form a cheap hybrid kit is like playing with fire, literally. This is why there are no licensed Philips and Hella HID conversion kits worldwide. Irresponsible merchants borrow the fame of Philips & Hella and name their hybrid kits that way - which is misleading and unethical. OEM HID ballasts like Philips & Hella are strictly engineered for OEM applications, their safety features can be heavily compromised when installed on vehicles with stock halogen lighting. This is why our patented HID ballast has this advanced safety feature built-in to provide maximum safety in aftermarket applications.
  • How good is your kit?
    Extremely good especially when you consider its exceptional quality, reliability, ease-of-use, safety feature, after-sales support and cost.
    We don't pretend this to be a Japanese product by adding meaningless Japanese characters on its packaging. We don't mislabel this as a European product by displaying Philips & Hella logos all over it. We don't want to fool you into believing that this is a Japanese-designed kit which just 'happens' to be made in China or Taiwan. Our sole intention is to market a high-quality yet affordable HID kit. Our kit is 100% designed, engineered and fabricated in Korea. Certain capsules are actually German made. Apart from making 35W automotive HID ballast, our manufacturer also makes 70W / 150W MHD electronic ballast for CDM / HQI HID lamps, as well as industrial power supply modules for: 1) factory automation control, 2) nuclear power plant control, 3) PDP panel for Samsung SDI, etc.
  • But aren't Hella or Philips components better than your Korean brand?
    This is not just ANY Korean brand, we tested our current system extensively before we chose it.
    Remember that we used to be Bellof USA (both Bellof & Catz utilize Matsushita ballasts). We also carried ECB (which utilizes Hella ballasts). Philips & Hella, even up to today, never build HID components for aftermarket use. This is of crucial importance as P&H's components were never intended nor tested for aftermarket use. They remain as OEM manufacturers only. Moreover, we sold & installed countless HID systems with Bellof, Catz, ECB, K2, McCulloch, etc. before. When we say that our current system is better than even Bellof & Catz, we really have first hand experience to back it up. True that certain much older Korean brands like K2 & Mister Jung were very scary, but our system is of world-class quality at an affordable price. Don't be fooled by other so-called 'HID authorities' who have NEVER seen nor used our system but try to sell you their 'pieced-together' P&H kits so desperately.
  • My car came with OEM HID headlight system, why do I care about your products?
    US car dealerships (foreign & US brands) are allowed to sell HID capsules in 4,000K range only.
    OEM replacement HID capsule costs $300+ each! Ours cost a fraction of that but just as good quality. Our HID capsules are now available in a wide color selection: 2500K (yellow), 4000K (OE white), 5000K (hyper white), 6000K (whitish blue). Our D2C capsules pop right into your existing D2S as well as D2R sockets!
  • Speaking of this Kelvin temperature (K), is higher the better?
    Not at all. Higher is actually more purple and dimmer.
    We don't recommend using capsules with temperature higher than 6,000K as anything higher will be too dim yet produces the most annoying blue glare, will most likely fail annual inspection test, and will attract cops more.
    Color Temperature Lumen (±7%)
    4,100 K 3,000 lm
    5,000 K 2,700 lm
    6,000 K 2,600 lm
    8,000 K 2,000 lm
  • What alternative HID wattages are out there?
    35-watt is the norm & industry standard.
    But we also have 42-watt & 50-watt systems. Our 42-watt is as bright as those Chinese-made 50-watt. And our 50-watt is close to 50% brighter than Chinese-made 35-watt.
  • HID draws less power from a vehicle's electrical system, what's the significance of this?
    Power-saving HID when compared to halogen offers the following advantages:
    Less energy drain on the vehicle's battery resulting in enhanced performance in the other systems as well as higher MPG.
  • What can I do to prolong the lifespan of my HID capsules?
    Glad that you asked. HID capsules are very delicate & fragile components indeed.
    1. Do not touch the capsule glass except their base portions. If you do touch them by accident, use a lint-free cotton pad with mild alcohol to wipe off the skin oil carefully.
    2. Disable DRL (daylight running lights). This annoying feature sends insufficient voltage to the capsules when you first turn your key and as a result, only 1 of 2 capsules are usually fired up. You can 'fix' this by starting up the engine fast before the DRL kicks in. Or simply disable the DRL via help from forums.
    3. Do not turn on the engine with the HIDs on.
    4. Do not turn off the engine with the HIDs on.
    5. Do not allow the HID ballasts to be exposed to excessive water/moisture.
    6. Do not leave your HIDs on when car is idle. This overheats them.
    7. Do not turn them on & off repetitively. This hurts all bulbs - incandescent, halogen, HID, LED, etc.
    8. Inspect headlight units to make sure the seals are good. Make sure no moisture buildup inside the housings.
    9. Use Hyper Ground System and/or Hyper Voltage System to stabilize current & voltage. And to get the maximum intensity of your HID system.
  • How does HID compare to this new lighting technology called HIR?
    HIR stands for Halogen Infrared Reflective and is relatively new.
    HIR is undoubtedly an improvement over conventional halogen but it still pales in performance when compared to genuine HID. We currently carry a few Japanese brands of HIR bulbs in our Lighting - Bulbs section.
    HID HIR
    Consumption: 35 watts Consumption: 55-65 watts
    Temp: Varies Temp: Varies
    Config: More Config: Less
    Rated life: 2,000 hours Rated life: 235-800 hours
    Lumens: ±3,000 @35W Lumens: ±1,875 @55W
  • Is OE projector retrofit really better than halogen-to-HID conversion?
    Firstly, let's get the terminology straight, shall we? What others called "HID Retrofit" actually means retrofitting OE HID projectors into halogen housing. What they called "HID Conversion" means halogen-to-HID conversion. Other self-proclaimed HID experts try to make you think that the former method is God while the latter is a crime, when in fact that both practices are illegal according to NHTSA. But apart from legality issues, is the former method really better? Read on:
    Adv = Advantage / Dis = Disadvantage
    OE Projector Retrofit Halogen-to-HID Conversion
    Adv: Sharp cut-off means a no-brainer to aim even for amateurs. Dis: Blurred cut-off means harder to aim & more stray glare possible.
    Dis: Sharp cut-off generates intense bright & pitch black zones that is harder on the driver's eyes. Adv: Blurry cut-off is easier on the driver's eyes and glare illuminates more road objects on the sides & on top.
    Adv: Individual OE components are legal to sell technically speaking. Dis: Conversion kits are illegal to sell due to the #108 NHTSA ban.
    Adv: Quality control on OE components are more consistent. Dis: Quality control on re-based & modified components varies with brands.
    Dis: Projectors can only be sourced from junk yards, eBay or very limited online places. Adv: Conversion kits are more obtainable from foreign retailers. Many convert halogen projector headlamps into HID ones too with great results.
    Dis: Components (esp. bi-xenon projectors) & labor can be very expensive. Adv: Kits (incl. hi/low beams) & labor are substantially cheaper.
    Dis: Installation is only for the most skillful & knowledgeable few (ie: very technique-sensitive with lots of fabrication issues if not done well). Adv: Installation is a lot more straightforward & forgiving in comparison.
    Dis: Substantial modification of the headlamp assembly is required including drilling & breaking original seal. So installation is limited to headlamp size & shape. Adv: Plug-n-play installation in 99% of the cases.
    Dis: Finished product looks noticeably different from stock which translates into a magnet for thieves, police & inspectors. Adv: Finished product looks nearly identical to stock halogen and only the experienced few can tell the difference.
    Adv: Finished product looks really cool & unique when off (if done properly). Dis: Finished product looks plain when off (they look almost identical to stock halogen).
    Dis: Finished product can still generate glare & blind others, just look at those projectors on BMW X5, Range Rover, etc. Dis: Finished product can generate glare easier due to incompatible reflector, focal points, lens, etc.
    Dis: Only work well if stock lens is crystal clear with no fluted lines. Dis: Only work well if stock lens is crystal clear with no fluted lines.
    Adv: Focal point of HID capsule is insensitive to reflector type. Dis: Focal point of HID capsule is very sensitive to reflector type.
    Dis: OE components are not engineered for aftermarket retrofit applications. Adv: Aftermarket components are designed for aftermarket applications which translates into better waterproof.
    Dis: This is an illegal practice acording to NHTSA. Dis: This is an illegal practice acording to NHTSA.


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