Your kit comes with anti-seize lubricant. Use it liberally.
Important: We recommend that if your oxygen sensor is more than 3 years old, now would be a good time to replace it. A fresh Oxygen Sensor will help increase your fuel economy. (this applys to your forward sensors only as the rear sensors DO NOT affect your air/fuel mix)
We suggest that you first determine, if you have a CEL (check engine light) or SES (service engine soon) light on, what is causing the signal, be it a bad sensor, bad catalytic converter or the use of hydrogen supplement. This can be done with the Scan Gauge or a quick trip to your local parts store/dealer, to scan your trouble code and later clear the offending light.
If you have determined the offending code is due to your installation of "Headers", "Test Tube" or "High-Flow" catalytic converter, you will only need to add the Oxyisolator to the Oxygen Sensor(s) behind the catalytic converter(s).
If your trouble is from the presence of excess oxygen due to hybrid or alternative fuel such as hydrogen, you will only need to apply the Oxyisolators to the Oxygen Sensor(s) between the engine and catalytic converter(s).
The "new" Oxyisolators now come in two pieces each. This was to give an ability to tune the installation to the proper signal.
The following installation is written out as if you are installing only one Oxyisolator but applies to any usage of any number.
- Remove your Oxygen Sensor paying careful attention to not damage any surfaces of the Sensor or it's nut/head surface or threads. Once the sensor is removed, use a fine brass wire brush to clean the threads inside the hole and the treads of the sensor itself. Lubricate all thread surfaces with the supplied anti-seize lubricant. DO NOT TOUCH THE SENSOR PAST IT'S THREADED AREA, ANY CUT, SCRATCH OR EVEN A BRUSH MARK WILL RUIN YOUR SENSOR!
- Separate your Oxyisolator into its two parts. You will set aside the "short extender" part. It's identified by its short length and smaller hole.
- Using the lubricant supplied, cover all the threaded surfaces of the "long extender" part (this will ensure your ability to remove it later if need be). It's identified by it's longer length and the larger hole in it's male end.
- Install the larger Oxyisolator into the exhaust pipe bung hole.
- Install the Oxygen Sensor into the Oxyisolator that you installed in part 4.
- Once you have finished installing the Oxygen Sensor and reconnected it's wiring, make sure you have cleared your trouble code causing the CEL or SES and take the vehicle for a test drive to see if the light returns.
> What to do if the SES or CEL light returns:
If installing the larger part of the Oxyisolator does not remove your Oxygen Sensor far enough from your exhaust you will need to install the smaller part of the Oxyisolator. This is done by the following:
- Remove the Oxygen Sensor and Oxyisolator in the reverse of the above installation instructions.
- Reapply anti-seize lubricant to all threads and combine the Oxyisolators in their original configuration they were shipped in and install into the exhaust using the compression seal ring that came with your kit. (This places the end with the small hole inside the exhaust and the larger hole left open for receiving the oxygen sensor)
- Reinstall the Oxygen Sensor into the now installed Oxyisolator and reconnect your wiring.
> Concept of the "Oxyisolator":
The Oxyisolator does away with the need for electronic 'gizmos' that can cost as much as $120.00 or more and rarely work for more than 6 months until they need to be replaced.
By applying the Oxyisolator, you have removed the Oxygen Sensor from the direct flow of exhaust and thereby disallowed it's ability to detect oxygen in the exhaust. Additionally, for the sensor to operate correctly and not set off an error code, the sensor must be subjected to fluctuation in high temperatures of the exhaust and fluctuation in the contents of the exhaust. This, too, has been completed by the use of the Oxyisolator.